Fez to Goulmima

I woke early this morning to the sound of the Medina waking for the day. The hotel breakfast was fresh and just the right amount to get me moving for the day. I looked out into the scene of the accident last night and wondered how the German couple were today, I expect given their age they will be a little stiff and bruised.

Three Spanish bikers set off a little before me, as I packed the bike schoolchildren, immaculately dressed in sparkling white shirts were heading for a days enlightenment, happy, smiling and skipping along busy in their own worlds.

A last ‘thank you’ to the hotel staff and I’m in the road again. The morning traffic is busy as people head off to work and I’m glad when I leave the city and join the road South towards Sefrou. The road opens up and the bike is purring along nicely as I travel through many netted fruit orchards stretching as far as the eye can see. There are oranges, apples and probably many other fruits too.

Past Sefrou and on towards Boulemane where I enter the Mouen Atlas Mountains where the scenery turns to bright orange rock with little vegetation but amazing roads which wind up high and cascade back into the desert below.

im now heading for Itzer on a road across the desert floor, it’s straight and disappears into the heat haze ahead, I crest a slight rise and the road is indistinguishable as the heat of the day blends the colours of the horizon, it seems to go on forever until I turn left at an intersection and ride towards Midelt.

This area must be famous for the production of onions as there are tons and tons of them stacked on low stone walls, covered with straw and then sheeted to cure, ready for dispatch to all corners of Europe I expect, it’s certainly an impressive sight.

Midelt was going to be my destination for the day but it was still early afternoon so I pressed on to Ar-Rachida as it was only another couple of hours or so. Arriving there I was still keen to camp but could not find anywhere, impatient as I can be I opened iOverlander and found that there was a campsite at a place called Goulmima a mere 38 miles down the road, still a journey of around an hour and a half. The place seems interesting so I head off on the final leg of the day.

Im back on the desert floor in the heat of the day and ready for a rest. The campsite took a little finding, but find it I did. I tooted my horn at the gate and an old gentleman scurried across, ‘Camping please’ I said, he opened the gate and swept his arms across the whole site in a gesture that meant ‘camp where you like! It’s a big place in the middle of town and it’s completely empty. Not any more!

I found a suitable spot and set up camp, I have food so I get all my gear organised and cook, adding extra garlic of course. I’m trying out some coffee bags which appear to work well, but not so good on the second mug!

I had to call home to tend to some work issues and I’m pleased to say that the situation with work is obviously under control, well done Annie, you are a star. X

I haven’t decided where I’m going tomorrow but I will probably head west and pick up the Todra Gorge route into the High Atlas, who knows?

Check out the onion stacks!

Check out the onion stacks!

This road went on forever!

This road went on forever!

The CRF is taking it all in its stride.

The CRF is taking it all in its stride.

It’s a desert out there..

It’s a desert out there..

Camp here for the night at Goulmima, relaxed quiet and (almost) empty, just little old me!

Camp here for the night at Goulmima, relaxed quiet and (almost) empty, just little old me!

Samuel Jowett